The story behind 'Made in Bangladesh'

Nazma Akter. Photo by Astrid van Unen

What kind of story is behind the ‘Made in Bangladesh’ label in our clothing? At the moment, at any rate, it is one of fighting for a higher minimum wage. Demonstrations by workers in November were suppressed with violence. This conflict has sadly not yet been resolved, says Nazma Akter, president of trade union federation SGSF, partner of Mondiaal FNV. In the meantime, the union  continues undeterred in organising, concluding CBAs and fighting for women’s rights.

To the streets for a higher minimum wage

At the end of October and beginning of November 2023, tens of thousands of Bengali textile workers took to the streets in the capital city of Dhaka to demand a higher minimum wage. 4 people lost their lives, and an unknown number were injured. Of those who died, one was a member of the SGSF. “And one of our members was severely wounded”, says Nazma Akter. “He recently underwent surgery, and 60 small rubber bullets were removed.”

Demonstrations suppressed with violence

Nazma is appalled when looking back at the response of the police and employers to the protests. “The police acted with great brutality. The demonstrations were suppressed with full consent of the employers. People were beaten up and even pregnant women did not escape unscathed. A black list has been drawn up of workers who demonstrated, which the workers are still suffering the effects of.”

The minimum wage is currently 8,000 taka (around 67 euros) a month. The unions are demanding it be increased to 23,000 taka (190 euros), but the government is offering only 12,500 (just over 103 euros). “This offer is very disappointing”, says Nazma. “The monthly expenses are very high. Workers can barely make ends meet.” The corona pandemic had an immediate effect on clothing production in Bangladesh. This was aggravated by the war in Ukraine, resulting in a decline in the export of clothes and a rise in inflation. “The last rise in the minimum wage was in 2018. When you consider that our annual inflation is 5%, then the government’s final offer is not actually an increase, and not even compensation.”

The union’s latest information is that over 3,000 workers have been fired. “They have received no severance pay, they have been injured, have no money for proper medical treatment, have no legal support, and can no longer afford their food and other daily necessities. They are suffering from mental traumas and anxiety. Those workers who are, however, able to get back to work in the factories are still being threatened by plain-clothes police, prowling round and about their homes. A number were even called upon by the factory managers to quit, without any decent compensation.”

Union helps workers during the protests

These workers are still afraid to complain and come to the union, says Nazma. “At the time of the protests we offered shelter in our office to a number of workers who false charges had been made against. We tried to reach an agreement with the factory management to withdraw the lawsuits.” The union has also been successful in helping a number of workers who had lost their jobs to be reinstated. Nowadays the police tap mobile phones, including Nazma’s. “I receive threats on the phone. Of course we often stood in front of cameras to strengthen our wage demands and to inspire workers. The police and employers wanted me to stop this.” When Nazma is back in Dhaka she will meet with their lawyers and go through the options that still remain to continue the wage struggle.

Yes, we’re still growing "

Membership growth and more women leaders

So the SGSF will simply carry on, in the same fighting spirit, with financial support and technical assistance from Mondiaal FNV. “We’re hard at work organising new union members and on collective bargaining”, Akter tells us. “yes, we’re still growing. We now represent 76 textile unions at factory level, with a total of over 100,000 members. Roughly 80% are women, and our main goal is to increase the number of women leaders.” In Bangladesh, unions are formed at factory level and the unions can only be registered if 20% of the employees are members. “We train employees, empower them, give them information about healthy working and financial management. And we train them on their rights. As for CBAs, we have concluded 18 so far. Next year we expect another 5.”

Good CBAs

These CBAs have been well thought out, says Nazma. “At one factory, for example, maternity leave has been increased from 16 to 17 weeks. The management sees to it that pregnant women have extra food at lunch time, such as an egg and a banana. And the workers have been given a 10% pay rise. In a number of CBAs, we have been able to make agreements on more days’ leave. And at many factories, leave has been agreed for union training and union seminars. And every CBA now includes a complaints procedure. These are great results.”

Women’s rights

The SGSF pays special attention to women’s rights. Not an unnecessary luxury in a sector that is dominated by female employees and where sexual harassment is commonplace. “It’s not always about rape, but also about verbal abuse by the management in the worst possible way. About 90% of women workers have experienced gender-related violence and sexual harassment on the street, at home or at work. Bangladesh has no law against sexual harassment in the workplace. All we can do is go to court. This is why signing ILO convention 190 is so important.”

Anti-harassment committees

The Awaj Foundation, which is affiliated to the SGSF, gives legal support to women who are victims. “We are working hard on setting up anti-harassment committees in every factory. We train women on the meaning and consequences of sexual harassment, how they can keep track of these numbers and what they can do about it.”

“Our rights are strengthened”

New EU directive on due diligence

A new due diligence directive will soon come into force in the EU. The aim is to improve sustainable and responsible conduct by businesses operating in the EU and to embed human rights and environmental policies in the activities and management of companies. Could this also be of help  to the Bengali employees? “We are optimistic”, says Nazma.

A directive of this sort was also among our demands after the collapse of Rana Plaza, which killed 1,134 workers and injured some 2,500 others. If rights are violated in the clothing industry, then this directive will allow us to submit a complaint and obtain redress. This will strengthen our rights, enabling us to challenge clothing brands direct. In addition, we would like European countries to introduce legislation at national level too, as Germany has already done."

What can the FNV do?

Nazma: "The FNV can call the clothing brands to account concerning their responsibility and lobby the Dutch government for legislation in the area of due diligence. We will then be stronger.”